Tricot Warp Knit: Structure, Specs & OEM Production for Sportswear and Lingerie

I. TRICOT VS WEFT KNIT / WOVEN

• Tricot is a warp-knit fabric (yarns run lengthwise, forming column loops). It has a flat surface, low fraying, and minimal deformation along the warp direction.
• Stitch structure:
  Features tricot or pillar stitches formed by two guide bars (front and back). Patterns are defined using standard lapping notation such as 1-0/1-2, etc. [illustration recommended]
• Comparison with weft knit:
  Tricot offers higher dimensional stability, better run-resistance, and controlled stretch along the course/wale directions. It also differs in pilling and snag resistance characteristics.
• Comparison with woven:
  Tricot provides better drape, breathability, elasticity, and wrinkle recovery, while woven fabrics remain edge-stable but less naturally stretchable

II. IMPORTANT PARAMETERS WHEN FINALIZING SPEC

Yarn & Denier/Filament

• Material: Polyester or nylon.
• Typical ranges: 75D, 100D, 150D — higher denier gives more coverage and firmness.
• Filament count (e.g., 36F / 72F / 100F): More filaments = smoother handfeel and softer drape.
  • Lining: 75D/100D × 72F–100F → fine, silky texture.
  • Sportswear: 75D/150D × 48F–72F → balanced strength and breathability.
  • Intimates/Lingerie: 40D/75D × 72F–100F → ultra-soft, high recovery.

Composition & Elastane (%)

• Tricot can blend with spandex/elastane for stretch and recovery.
  • Lining: 0–3% spandex (mainly dimensional stability).
  • Sportswear: 5–10% spandex (dynamic stretch).
  • Lingerie: 8–15% spandex (body-fit elasticity).

Machine Gauge (E)

• Common gauges: 24E / 28E / 32E.
  • Higher gauge (28E–32E): finer surface, ideal for linings and lingerie.
  • Medium gauge (24E–28E): breathable and resilient for sportswear.

Fabric Weight (GSM)

• Controls drape and opacity.
  • Lining: 90–130 g/m²
  • Sportswear: 120–180 g/m²
  • Intimates: 80–120 g/m²

Fabric Width & Usable Width

• Standard width: 150–160 cm (usable ~148 cm).
• Custom widths available upon request; tolerance ±2 cm per roll.

III. 3 POPULAR TRICOT CONFIGURATIONS BY USE CASE

IV. FAQ

What is tricot? how does it differ from raschel?

Tricot is a warp-knit fabric (yarns run lengthwise, forming column loops). It usually uses 2–3 guide bars, producing a flat, smooth surface with high dimensional stability, low fraying, and excellent run resistance.
Applications: linings, sportswear, intimates/lingerie.

Raschel, also warp-knit, has a more open or patterned structure (2–6+ guide bars) that easily creates mesh, lace, power-net, or spacer fabrics. Its surface is typically rougher with better breathability and form retention.

Quick choice guide:

• Need a smooth, flat surface for printing or heat transfer → Tricot

• Need mesh, shaping, or compression → Raschel (power-net, lace, spacer)

Tricot 75D vs 150D for Lining

• 75D (36–48F): finer yarn, softer drape, smooth surface, medium opacity, cooler handfeel → for dress linings, lightweight shirts.
  Suggested GSM: 70–90

• 150D (72–96F): thicker yarn, stronger coverage, higher durability, less print-through → for jackets, uniforms.
  Suggested GSM: 100–130

A higher filament count (F) → smoother touch, lower pilling and fuzzing.
If the lining must feel extra silky and cool, choose 75D; if you need more coverage and anti-show-through, go 150D.

Machine Gauge (E): How to Choose

• 24E (lower gauge): more open texture, visible grain → ideal for sporty or fine-mesh tricot.

• 28E (balanced): most common for lining/sportswear — smooth yet breathable.

• 32E (highest gauge): ultra-smooth surface, perfect for intimates or high-end linings.

Tip: For detailed sublimation or solid-color transfer printing → use 28E–32E.
If air-permeability and cost efficiency matter → 24E–28E.

Is Spandex Needed for Sportswear?

Not mandatory — tricot can achieve mechanical stretch through lapping design.
However, to improve recovery and shape stability under motion, spandex is recommended.

Suggested elastane content (of total fabric):

• 5–8%: standard activewear, sport linings (spandex 20D–40D, GB3 in-lay)

• 8–12%: yoga or light-compression (power-tricot) requiring higher recovery

Adjust lapping (longer underlap) to increase coverage and crosswise stretch; perform heat-setting for elastic stability.

Contact

Thuhuong Textile Co., Ltd
Add: Lot R11, Street No. 9, Hai Son Industrial Park (Phase 3 + 4), Duc Hoa Commune, Tay Ninh Province, Vietnam
Tel / WhatsApp / Zalo: +84 938 626 016
Website: https://thuhuongtextile.com